![]() ![]() This might leave you with a bathroom with uneven heat. The issue with that may be that such a heater does not have the mass of a cast iron radiator and would tend to lose heat more quickly than other parts of the system. There again, you will have to check the BTUs available. Or, consider a toekick model mounted in the base of the vanity. Option two is convert to a cast iron baseboard and use a floating vanity, although you would have to check BTU outputs. One option is to reframe the plumbing wall, if possible, to put in a header and remove the studs behind the radiator and recess the radiator into the wall which should give you five inches or a bit more. Given that it is a connection to an existing system, I could see lots of potential hiccups and fixing them would require either working from below, destroying the kitchen ceiling or ripping up the new tile floor to access the heating. Is this hot water heat, not steam? I would not mess with trying to use under floor hydronic heating. Even with careful planning these changes will consume at least 75% of your budget. Recommendations leave all the fixtures in their current location, since you're going to replace the siding-change the window to one that does not protrude into the tub/shower space (ie narrower side-to-side), keep the current tub while replacing the surrounding walls with product such as Onyx Collection or US Marble, change stool to "tank in wall" model with round seat profile (this will require a licensed plumber), install towel warmer ladder over the stool (it will also heat the room) using current HW system (this will require a licensed plumber). Depending on your location, this change alone would eat up between 30% to 50% of your budget. This move will likely require opening the kitchen wall to allow for the re-route. It might be possible to move it toward the entry door but, it must be on the current wall. Toilets ("stools" in plumber-speak) have written-in-stone requirements. and some nice artwork over this spot.įirst issue is the waste line for the toilet, it's the most expensive plumbing change to make.if it can be done at all. Once you have all the major players on one wall, could you build in a shallow closet between the studs across from the toilet?Īnd a nice recessed medicine cabinet over the sink: Since you don't have much storage space, add shelves or a cabinet above the toilet.Ī wall-hung toilet does seem like a good idea since it will be a space saver, but it is more expensive.ĭo you have the option of reversing the door swing so that it opens outward instead of into the room? Can you use a slightly larger door? Your current door appears to be narrow. With such a small vanity, I'd go with a custom vanity, which would give you more storage space per square inch. ![]() The one thing I don't like about your layout is that the tub doesn't go allll the way to the left wall - go with a slightly larger tub to use every inch, or add a ledge for toiletries. Moving water lines, especially the toilet will cost - but it looks worthwhile. Layout #2 is definitely better, but it will be more expensive. Open to tough love and reality checks! Also hoping for help with the fun stuff: decor and fixtures. (Twice as much as Option A, all else being equal? Ten times as much? Who knows!) Then, once any plumbing/structural issues are revealed during demolition, add that cost to Option A to see if it narrows the gap enough to make Option B viable. My plan is to get estimates for both options since I've no idea how much more expensive Option B would be. I know this is a better use of space, I'm just not sure it would be worth the added hassle of gutting everything entirely. I'd also add a tiled-in bump-out like this, this, or this in the upper right corner and swap the door around. replace window blind with a frosted film on the glassįor this I'd opt for a vanity instead of a floating sink, since I'd be losing that big chunk of storage space in exchange for more sitting/standing/walking space.replace vanity with a wall-mounted sink.replace toilet with a more efficient & compact model.replace deteriorating tile and flooring with something more my taste.replace light fixture with combo light/fan.I am weighing two options and would appreciate any input from the community. The plumbing for the shower is in the 5"-wide wall between it and the open storage area in the lower right corner. Note that the radiator in the lower left corner extends a few more inches into the sink cabinet. There are 9" of clearance in front of the toilet, which is less than ideal for the long-legged among us (I'm 5'10" and my partner's 6'2"), but something I'm used to after living here nearly a decade. The house was built in 1948 and I'm not sure it's been updated at all since then, aside from the shoddy paint job I did after removing the wallpaper. The bathroom is next on my to-renovate list.
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